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Click here for complete Tools & Materials list. |
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Cleaning the Face |
I start with Palmolive clear dishwashing liquid in a cup of warm water. If
the face needs more cleaning, I use a Q-tip soaked in 1 part Twin Pines Formula 911 to 2 parts water. I've never needed to do this more than once. |
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Cleaning the Body |
I always remove the head. First, I wash the body with a sponge dipped in diluted Palmolive dishwashing
liquid. Then, I wipe down the body with Formula 911 in 2 parts water. For stains, I put Soft Scrub on a
cotton ball, and gently wipe the area, then rinse thoroughly, making sure no grit remains. I find Soft Scrub
w/Bleach works well on dark stains and some stains caused by clothing. This works especially well on ink stains. |
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When the legs get a little sticky or tacky from cleaning, I rub them with Johnson's
Baby Powder. It gives them a nice finished look and smells wonderful. |
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Cleaning the Hair |
I use Mane and Tail Shampoo and Conditioner (can be purchased at Wal-Mart). I use a metal flea comb to comb out the hair while
the conditioner is still in it, then I rinse thoroughly. Never use a Barbie brush or comb, as they will only further tangle the hair. See Restyling. |
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Mildew/Mold Stains |
The secret here is the sun. I use Soft Scrub w/Bleach. First, I remove the head. I clean the entire body
with the Soft Scrub to kill all the mold spores. Then, using a Q-tip, I dab the Soft Scrub w/Bleach
wherever the mold is and set the doll out in the sun. I repeat this process daily, until the stains are gone,
and this can take quite a while. I make sure to cover the part of the doll I do not want exposed to the sun.
I've only succeeded once in completely removing the stains. This is strictly a summer project for me. |
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Other suggestions for TNT legs, which I have NOT yet tried: Wash the legs with bleach, then set the doll out in the sun.
(Thank you, Penny) Use Clearasil, and set the doll out in the sun. (Thank you, Margie) |
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Smoke/Musty Odors |
I put Barbie into a sheet of folded white tissue paper, taped at the ends, and bury her in a container of unscented cat litter for a week. If her legs are a little sticky, as the
mod legs sometimes are, I rub a tiny bit of unscented talc on them first. Caution: If the cat litter has a fragrance of it's own, it will transfer to Barbie. |
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For White Items:
I've had great success soaking whites in cold water with Twin Pines Perk with their Boost additive.
(See Nurse Julia's uniform)
I've read that Efferdent tablets dissolved in cold water work well on white satin or white cotton that has yellowed, although I haven't tried this method. |
For Colored Items:
The first thing I do is soak a colored item in a mixture of one part white vinegar to five parts water to set the colors. I let it sit for about an hour,
rinse it, and then wash it using Perk. I do not use Woolite, as it removes fabric sizing. A limp Swirly Cue showed me that.
The Clover Mini-Iron works well for touch-ups on these tiny, delicate items. |
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Smoke/Musty Odors |
While my first inclination is to wash, some pieces of clothing will not stand up to a good soaking, like the 'suede' coat of Magnificent Midi.
These pieces I would wrap in acid free tissue paper and try the cat litter process. It may take more than a week, especially with suede or faux suede.
My Gaucho Gear boots and vest needed a two week process. I've read this but haven't had the need to try it yet: Place a layer of baking soda in the bottom of a tupperware-like container.
Wrap clothing in a paper towel and place it on top of the baking soda. Put the lid on the container and let it sit. Every
seven days replace the baking soda and paper towels until all the smell is gone.
I would not use Fabreeze. It leaves a telltale
odor that turns stale over time.
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